About the Collective
Dye Weave Pleat is the collective expression of three textile traditions in Scotland: natural dyeing, hand weaving and hand stitched kiltmaking. This collaboration of three craft studios showcases their heritage techniques in modern conjunction, presenting the work of each maker within a capsule collection of kilts.
Each of the three studios specialise in hand skills that are individually recognised as endangered heritage crafts. Collectively they embody the tradition of kiltmaking as it originally was: using plants from the land to dye locally grown yarn, regionally processed and woven into cloth that was hand stitched into a garment synonymous with Scotland.
For this contemporary exploration they have reshuffled the sequence in which those skills are used, championing Scottish materials and methods that defy the conventional process, but uphold the hand stitched skills that define the tradition. The kilts refer to specific beaches across Scotland, using both materials and forms that evoke these coastal sites in the depths of frosts during winter 24/25.
For London Craft Week they are joined by jeweller Kristin Beeler, based in Dundee, who has created kilt pin accessories as a response to the landscapes portrayed in each piece.
The Studios
Acme Atelier
Scotland
Acme Atelier is the bespoke kiltmaking studio led by Andrea Chappell, where traditional hand stitched techniques are expressed in contemporary designs, often in combination with custom handprinted textiles. Each kilt is a unique commission that embodies the story of a person, place or event within a wearable work of art, created from hand pleated, hand printed and hand stitched textile construction.
Cavan Jayne McPherson
Scotland
Cavan Jayne McPherson specialises in artisan dye techniques and natural, low impact colour application for fashion and textiles. Cavan works holistically to showcase the environmental benefits of natural dyes within the current fashion system, from farm to factory, using contemporary applications across yarn, piece and garment. Her bespoke service offers palette creation, sampling and production from her Scottish dye studio.
Vevar
Glasgow
Vevar was established in 2020 as the first hand weaving mill in Glasgow’s east end in over a century. The studio is internationally recognised by fashion houses, artists and cultural institutions for its contemporary take on Scottish tradition. Their eye on both the history and future of Scottish textiles is testimony to the passion and ambition of founders Christopher McEvoy and Chantal Allen.
Kristin Beeler
Dundee
Kristin Beeler studies the relationship between jewellery, landscape and empathy as Research faculty at Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design in Dundee, Scotland. Her kilt pins are studies in carving mother of pearl to capture wind and landscape patterns — objects that carry the spirit of Scotland’s coastal terrain.
Works Available
For enquiries email [email protected]
01
Achmelvich
Silk organza kilt — hand painted, natural dyes, hand woven passimenterie & antique glass
Silk organza kilt, hand painted with natural dyes and embellished with hand woven passimenterie and antique glass. The kilt refers to the beach at Achmelvich on the north-west coast of Scotland.
£3,600
Diam. 72cm waist, 90 seat
Length 60 — size 8
NFS — commission guide only
01a
Kilt Pin — Achmelvich
Mother of pearl, sterling silver & steel — Kristin Beeler
Carved mother of pearl kilt pin, capturing the wind and landscape patterns of the Achmelvich coastline.
£500
10 × 15cm
Sold separately
02
Cove Bay
Hand dyed woven silk kilt — silk fringe, silver chain, leather & chrome
Hand dyed woven silk with woven silk fringe, hand dyed silk organza, silver chain, leather and chrome. Inspired by the cove at Cove Bay on the north-east coast of Scotland. Additional padding to seat.
£8,400
Length 50, Diam. 72 waist
100cm seat — size 8
NFS — commission guide only
02a
Kilt Pin — Cove Bay
Mother of pearl, sterling silver & steel — Kristin Beeler
Carved mother of pearl kilt pin, capturing the atmosphere of Cove Bay.
£500
10 × 15cm
Sold separately
03
Singing Sands
Hand dyed woven cotton & silk kilt — steel chains & glass beads
Hand dyed woven cotton and silk with steel chains and glass beads. Named for the singing sands of the Isle of Eigg on Scotland’s west coast.
£3,600
Length 60, Diam. 72 waist
100cm seat — size 10
NFS — commission guide only
03a
Kilt Pin — Singing Sands
Mother of pearl, sterling silver & steel — Kristin Beeler
Carved mother of pearl kilt pin, capturing the resonance of the Singing Sands.
£500
10 × 15cm
Sold separately
